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Boiled Linseed Oil: For Wood and Metal

About Boiled Linseed Oil

Found in most woodworker’s workshops, as well as in trade shops up and down the UK, boiled linseed oil is a popular wood oil product at Rawlins Paints.

Also known as BLO (an acronym of Boiled Linseed Oil), this wood finish is an oil treatment primarily for interior use, which leaves a lovely and smooth finish on a wooden surface – almost with a wet look. Like the kiss of life, it can transform old, worn out and dried wood to better its former glory. Boiled Linseed Oil can be used on outdoor surfaces, but it lacks the resistance seen in modern products formulated for exterior work.

There are other wood finishes that treat surfaces in a different way, such as waxes, which ‘set’ the surface, sitting on it and buffing it to the desired finish. At Rawlins Paints we stock traditional wood oils (Danish, Teak, Linseed) and newer, advanced, next-generation wood products from Osmo that are much more user-friendly and combine the advantages of oils, waxes, and varnishes in one tin.

Boiled Linseed Oil – Its Many Uses

What is linseed oil used for?

Boiled Linseed Oil protects wooden surfaces with its deep penetration, soaking into the grain and bringing out added contrast and character. Rather than being a surface treatment, boiled linseed oil soaks deep into the wooden fibres, to the core of smaller depth pieces of wood, strengthening it throughout.

You may find it used on:

Boiled linseed oil can transform ornately decorated wood

We stock products that offer decorative and protective finishes

  • Guitars – electric and acoustic, on the wooden body and neck
  • Bannisters and Handrails
  • Cabinets and Cupboards
  • Rifles and Old Tool Handles
  • Interior seating in Boats and Caravans
  • Interior and Exterior Doors
  • Speaker Cabinets
  • Wooden Models and Crafts, such as cars and jewellery boxes
  • Shelving and Mantelpieces
  • Structural Beams

 

Fun Fact: Boiled linseed oil has not actually been boiled, but is chemically modified with metallic solvents for faster drying times. Standard or raw linseed oil can take weeks to dry, sometimes longer – making that the main difference between the two types of linseed oil.

Boiled linseed oil uses extends past wood protection, too – it also helps preserve metal, by protecting the surface from oxidation. Thin coatings work best, as thicker application coatings can take longer to dry and get, what is known in the trade, as ‘gummy’.

Generally, only applied to non-moving parts of workshop tools, such as chisels, block planes, screwdrivers or treasured (and no longer used) heirloom tools, it can also be used on cast iron surfaces of bigger tools – table and band saws for example.

Use boiled linseed oil to restore old metal tools

Whatever the project, shop at Rawlins for protective finishes

How to Apply Boiled Linseed Oil

Boiled linseed oil is applied with a rag, or a similar buffering cloth. This is dipped into the linseed oil and rubbed into the wood – straight up and down the grain, or in slow buffering circles. Gloves should be worn at all times during the handling and application process of linseed oils.

You can also brush-apply boiled linseed oil onto bare wood. Using a minimum of 3 coats, the first two coats should be thinned 30% with white spirit. If used externally a wood preservative should be applied first.

Remember, as discussed earlier, to apply thin layers and not at any point by pouring the boiled linseed oil onto a surface.

Where possible, as with all paints and wood finishes sold at Rawlins Paints, it is best to test boiled linseed oil on a small area first, before applying full coverage.

Dry, bare wood is like a sponge and will soak up almost anything applied to its surface. Boiled linseed oil is one of many interior and exterior wood preparation products available, and acts as a good wood sealer to make surfaces much more water resistant.

Nearly all wooden surfaces will contract and expand through humidity and seasonal weather, which is where this type of linseed oil is great as it is flexible and will continue to protect the wood through these changes over time.

How Long Does Boiled Linseed Oil Take To Dry?

It may take between 24-72 hours for boiled linseed oil to fully cure, or dry out to the touch.

The Dried Out Finish

Similar to some other solvent based products, boiled linseed oil is cured by its interaction and chemical reaction with oxygen. When it dries, boiled linseed oil does create heat, in part of its chemical reaction with oxygen. Because of this there may be recommendations on a product for drying out (curing time) exposure to sunlight or other heat sources (ovens, radiators, naked flames), as well as for safe disposal of used cloths.

Chemistry states that lower usage of the product will create lower heat generating reactions, compared to larger application areas and density of the coating treatment creating potentially much bigger heat generation risk.

Removing Boiled Linseed Oil

The best technique to prepare a wooden surface for a treatment other than boiled linseed oil is to use sandpaper and a lot of elbow grease. As the oil soaks deep into the wood, you’ll be looking to prepare only the surface’s cured coating, removing as much of the linseed oil as possible.

Boiled Linseed Oil – Product Focus

Barrettine Boiled Linseed Oil is a traditional wood oil that works very well on most woods, with the exception of oak, and can be used inside and outside on soft and hard woods. Leaving an attractive warm mellow to an unpolished wood surface, it is water resistant and has a light satin finish. As well as sealing woods, it is also a traditional sealer for terracotta tiles. Every workshop should have a canister of Barrettine’s boiled linseed oil in a cupboard.

Why Can’t You Use Boiled Linseed Oil On Oak?

Oak contains a high level of natural water-soluble extractives and tannins, and some of these can react with the metal driers in Boiled Linseed Oil, turning black and discolouring the wood. These black spots can appear similar to mould spots.

Health and Safety

Boiled linseed oil does come with a strong warning that it is a very flammable material and incorrect storage can lead to spontaneous combustion. All product datasheets should indicate strict storage recommendations – including temperature, humidity, sunlight exposure, etc. for the storage area. If in doubt, please contact us prior to ‘forgetting’ about it and leaving it in an unsuitable environment.

One application method is to use a dry rag. After use, however, lay flat the rag on a non-flammable surface (concrete), away from potential heat/flame sources, until dry. Alternately, like the oil itself, the rag can be stored in a metal container. Never discard a used rag, as this can be a huge fire risk – the ‘screwed up’ and discarded rag can be a lot more heat reactive and combustible due to lack of air ventilation to cool the oil down. Used rags can be flash points, and at all times through the preparation, usage and cleaning-away process, all materials must be considered fire risks if inappropriately used and stored.

22 comments

  1. Hello –

    I have a solid wood beam (raw) mantel sandwiched between a stone fireplace. To my knowledge the wood beam has never been treated (only lived here 3 years, house was built in the 70s). The beam is starting to split, and as I did some internet research I came across the suggestion of using linseed oil on the beam to help keep it from splitting further. Is this advised? Thanks!

    • Hi Mike,

      Thank you very much for reading our blog and for your question. Linseed oil can be used on timber to help aid in reducing cracking, however applying oil to timber in close proximity of a fire could create a fire hazard. Therefore if the fireplace is in use we wouldn’t recommend linseed oil for this application.

      I hope this helps and please feel free to get in touch if you have any further questions.

      Many thanks
      Stuart

  2. Morning,

    what is the best type of linseed oil (boiled or raw) to use on a UK based beehive please?

    Regards
    andrew

    • Hi Andrew,

      Many thanks for taking the time to leave us a review and for your question. Unfortunately we no longer supply any boiled linseed oils, however Flag Raw Linseed oil is not hazardous to bees when dry – we would recommend ensuring it is fully dry before butting the beehive into use as it is sticky when first applied.

      I hope this helps and please feel free to get in touch if you have any further questions.

      Many thanks
      Stuart

  3. I would like to beautify and “refurbish” some beautiful dark brown wicker/rattan patio chairs (Lloyd Flanders). Is boiled Linseed oil a good product to use on these ?? Any special precautions ??

    • Hi David,

      Thank you very much for reading our blog and for your question. I’m afraid this isn’t something we would recommend and we couldn’t really offer a good solution for this application.

      In this instance we would advise consulting with the manufacturer/craftsman that made or makes the chairs and ask their professional advice.

      Apologies we couldn’t help on this occasion and please feel free to get in touch if you have any further questions.

      Many thanks
      Stuart

  4. BLO was recommended for a trivet. I made my trivet from Padauk. Will BLO treated wood be suitable for sitting hot pots or bowls on?

    • Hi Wayne,

      Many thanks for taking the time to read our blog and for your question.

      Unfortunately Boiled Linseed Oil is not tried and tested for this application – it will permanently go soft and sticky if exposed to high heat so we wouldn’t recommend it for this use.

      I hope this helps and please feel free to get in touch if you have any further questions.

      Many thanks
      Stuart

  5. What do you recommend to rejuvenate and protect cork products, such as a 1/8 inch thick layer of cork on a coaster?

    • Hi Russ,

      Many thanks for taking the time to read our blog and for your question.

      For cleaning we could recommend the Osmo Tannin Spot Remover.

      To protect the items we would recommend Osmo Polyx-Oil Original.

      This will take approximately 15-20 days to cure, so you would need to not use the coasters until after then.

      This product is microporous and is water repellent and not waterproof, so we would advise that any spills are cleaned up ASAP.

      These products aren’t strictly designed for this application, but should be suitable if the above guidelines are followed.

      I hope this helps and feel free to get in touch if you have any further questions.

      Many thanks
      Stuart

  6. I’ve washed down a 1930’s small dressing table with soapy water and a non scratchy foam pad.
    Later when dry, sprayed it with a Non silicone no water wood silk furniture polish – of beeswax and nutrient oils.
    It’s very dull looking now. Would boiled Linseed oil rubbed on it help, and if so is it safe to do it in my sunny conservatory?
    Many thanks, Rita

    • Hi Rita,

      Many thanks for taking the time to read our blog and for your question. We would recommend that you perform a small test area, as none of our suppliers will have tested their linseed oil with the product in question.

      A small test in a discreet location should be sufficient to see if the results are satisfactory for your project.

      I hope this helps and please feel free to get in touch if you have any further questions.

      Many thanks
      Stuart

  7. I have built an art sculpture made of 7/16” dowels and 3/32” thick basswood. It has many irregular angles and joints, some of which I would like to strengthen.

    Would applying coats of boiled linseed oil penetrate these woods and add strength to the joints? Once the BLO has dried, can I paint the wood with acrylic paint?

    Thank you!

    • Hi Stevan,

      Thank you very much reading our blog and for your question. We have checked with one of our suppliers and they have advised that Boiled Linseed Oil would not add strength to the structure, as it would be used purely to protect the wood, not to strengthen it I’m afraid. Also unfortunately it wouldn’t be advised to paint over it as the coating would not correctly not adhere to the oiled wood.

      I hope this helps and please feel free to get in touch if you have any further questions.

      Many thanks
      Stuart

  8. I have been given a set of crown green bowling woods
    They are turned from Lignum Vitae wood

    I am looking for a protective finish that is waterproof and bring out the grain

    My first thought was Boiled Linseed as it is used on cricket bats that need to also take knocks.

    Can you advise if Linseed oil is suitable for use on Lignum Vitae

    • Hi Peter,

      Thank you very much for taking the time to read our blog and for getting in touch. For this application our Technical Team would recommend Osmo Polyx Oil Express Satin, as this will drive into a tropical wood. Apply by microfibre cloth very thinly, removing any excess.

      We would also advise not to use the Osmo Polyx-Oil Express Hardener (for faster curing on selected timbers) with the Osmo Polyx-Oil Express on Lignum Vitae.

      For reference, Lignum Vitae is the only timber that sinks, it is one of the densest timbers. It is highly resinous which gives it a ‘plastic’ feeling.

      I hope this helps and please feel free to get in touch if you have any further questions.

      Many thanks
      Stuart

  9. Hello, I wonder if you can give me some advice, please? I used BLO on some metal hardware belonging to an antique cabinet I’m refinishing. Unfortunately, I followed advice stating that I should dip the metal fixtures in BLO, then set them out to dry (no wiping, just allowing the excess BLO to drip off). Well, the end product is still slightly gummy (tacky) a week later.
    Should I remove the BLO and start over? If so, what is the best way to remove the BLO?

    • Hi Jes,

      Many thanks for taking the time to take a look at our blog and for your question. Our Technical Team have advised this should just scrape off.

      Usually with oils etc. it is recommended to use them sparingly and send the oil as far as it can possibly go rather than allowing it to pool.

      I hope this helps and please feel free to get in touch if you have any further questions.

      Many thanks
      Stuart

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