What you’ll need:
- Rust-Oleum Worktop Transformation Kit
- 100mm Roller Frame
- 2 x 50mm Synthetic Paint Brush
- 2 x Paint Tray
- 50mm Masking Tape
- Disposable Gloves
- Protective Glasses
- Dust Sheets
- Lint Free Cloth/Rags
- Dust Mask
- Measure your worktops and make sure you have enough material to complete the entire project – the key to success in any DIY task is the preparation work. Before you get started you will also need to gather the tools and materials listed above – plus on a side-note, its best to keep pets and children out of the room during the entire refinishing process, as it is important to avoid scratching or smudging the coating as it dries.
- Remove everything from your worktops and inspect them carefully for any ‘structural’ or superficial damage. To get the best result from any transformation work, the surface needs to be sound in appearance and build. Small burns scratches and blemishes will be coated over easily, so there’s no need to treat these separately – however, areas with excessive caulk (such as near the wall or around the sink) should be scraped off with a putty knife or paint scraper. Cracks where worktops meet at the corner, along with dents and chips, will need to be filled before you start:
- To repair – lightly sand the spot first with a medium grit sandpaper and use a 2 part epoxy filler to fill in the area.
- Let the area dry and then sand flush to the surrounding area.
- Wipe down the worktops and clean thoroughly with soap and water to remove dirt and grease, and let dry.
- Wearing protective glasses, a dust mask and gloves, use the diamond embedded sanding tool included with your kit to thoroughly sand the entire surface:
- To use this special tool properly place both hands on it, press down firmly and sand in a circular motion. Continue sanding until your entire worktop is completely de-glossed.
- Remove any dust with a vacuum or dustpan and brush. Then wipe down your worktops with a damp, lint free cloth and allow them to dry. If you see dust on your hand after wiping the surface be sure to wipe the worktop again.
- Repeat as often as necessary until all sanding dust is removed.
- Mask off all areas of your worktop, including the edges of your sink, cabinets and walls. Begin by stirring and pouring a portion of the base coat into a clean paint tray. Working from back to front use a 15mm synthetic brush to apply an even coat of base coat to the splash back – be sure to ensure that your coverage includes 2.5 to 5cm of the flat worktop surface (this will prevent your roller from accidentally bumping into the splash-back when rolling.)
- Apply an even coat to the area around the sink:
- Once you have a nice even coat, lightly brush over it to ensure a smooth even finish.
- Using one of the rollers, apply an even coat of base coat to the worktop surface and front edge.
- After the initial coat, let dry for at least 2 to 4 hours before applying a second coat.
- Once the 2nd coat is touch dry and before it completely dries, be sure to remove the tape by first scoring it along the edges.
- Once you’ve finished the 2 base coats, leave it overnight before you commence the final step.
- Again, mask (re-tape) off all areas of your worktop including the edges of your sink, cabinets and walls. Before applying your top coat, check for chips – and if you see any, grab a small paint brush and paint over.
- Also, it’s important to check for any dust – give the worktop a wipe down with a damp, lint-free cloth and allow it to dry.
- While wearing gloves and protective eye-wear, carefully pour the entire contents of the top coat ‘part 2 activator’ into the top coat ‘part 1 base’ and thoroughly mix with the provided stir stick for at least 2 minutes. Once mixed, the protective top coat must be used within 4 hours:
- Pour a portion of the mixture into a clean paint tray and begin to simply work back to front as you did with the base coat.
- First use a 50mm synthetic paint brush to generously apply an even coat to the splash back.
- As with the base coat, be sure as you brush the splash back you include 2.5 to 5cm of the flat worktop surface to ensure a smooth transition.
- Once you’ve coated the entire surface, lightly brush back over it to ensure a smooth, even finish.
- Next, using the 2nd roller, apply the protective top coat to the entire flat surface and front edges of the worktop:
- The brush can be used for tight areas where the roller doesn’t fit.
- Once complete, lightly re-roll the entire surface in one direction – just like you did with the base coat – to ensure a smooth, even finish.
- Allow worktops to dry for 4 to 6 hours.
- Score the smooth painters tape along the edges, then carefully remove.
- Wait 48 hours before resuming light use of the worktops.
- Light use includes placing items on the worktops that weigh less than 2 kg.
- Let the worktops cure for at least one week before you resume full use.
No special care is needed for your new worktop, so maintaining it is simple – to clean the surface, use a damp cloth or sponge and a mild soap or non abrasive cleaner.
Under item 5 you say’ “after 2nd coat is touch dry score and remove the tape”.
You then say in item 8, “score and remove tape”. But one has already removed it under item 5????
Can you advise me before I purchase the Rustoleum worktop paint.
Good morning Rod,
Thank-you for pointing this out, and I will update and amend the article to reflect the following point – After removing the tape after applying the basecoat, re-apply the tape before commencing with the topcoat, to add continued protection.
Is there anything else I can help you with on this task, Rod?
Hi I am considering using the worktop transformation kit for my kitchen – however white will be too white and black too black is it possible to add black to white for a dark charcoal colour? Or red to white for pink? Thank you
Good morning Colette,
The answer is no I’m afraid. These transformation kits are not tintable and are only available in the specified colours.
If there’s anything else we can help with, please do let us know and good luck with your project.
do you know if Rustoleum have any plans to start selling a version of the Countertop Transformation kits that they market in the US here in the UK. Like the previous poster, I want to renovate my worktops but I am looking for something other than plain black or white. Thank you for your help.
Good afternoon Lesley,
I’m afraid that at the moment the Countertop Transformation Kit is not available in the UK, yet. There’s also no other colours available for the Worktop Transformation Kit, and no topcoats that can be used instead of what is contained within the kit.
Worktops are a very difficult area to paint, and Rust-Oleum have produced a fantastic product here – which will hopefully be expanded upon with new colours.
Apologies that this great product doesn’t meet all of your requirements.
If there’s anything else we can help with, please don’t hesitate to keep in contact.
Just used his transformation kit wow what a great result,saved me £££ instead of new worktop, easy to use just the prep of sanding was a bit to do,but get a amazing result
Can the treatment be applied to new MDF to create a kitchen worktop?
If so what (if any) treatment should be used on the MDF before using the kit?
Good afternoon Steve,
Unfortunately, this wouldn’t work, as the worktop kit needs the tough formica type laminate surface of an existing worktop to provide support. Without the hard laminate underneath, the worktop kit and the MDF itself could be damaged quite easily. I.E. if you dropped a can of baked beans or a glass it would more than likely leave a dent in the MDF and cause slight crazing of the paint coatings.
We’ve recently moved into a house with a disgustingly unhygienic tiled countertop. (Why would anyone do this?!) Is there a transformation kit solution available to help us with refurbing this surface without the expense of ripping it out and replacing it? I don’t just want to repaint and regrout – I want to create a flat smooth surface for easier cleaning if possible as well as looking more contemporary.
Good morning Kate,
Thank-you for your comment, but I regret to have to inform you that Rust-Oleum’s Worktop Transformation Kit is not suitable for, and nor do we have any products elsewhere on the site that would achieve what you require of it.
I wish I could recommend a product to achieve the flat smooth surface on the countertop you describe – but there’s nothing available from the manufacturers/brands we work with for this.
Thanks anyway! Worth asking!
I’m looking to paint my kitchen worktop using the black transformation kit, in the picture above it looks like it has a sparkly finish, could you tell me if this is so. Thank you.
Good morning Sharon,
The Worktop Transformation Kit Clear Protective Topcoat contains fine glitter particles:
– Galaxy Black has Silver
– Diamond White has Gold
The flecks help to hide any imperfections in the substrate.
Is there anything else we can help you with today on this product?
Hi Mark thanks for your response, do you have a picture of a worktop which has been painted with this product? Once painted is the glitter really noticeable? Could you add more?
Can this be used on solid wood work tops thanx
Yes it could be used on something like a beech block worktop – we would assume it will have been oiled or varnished in the past:
1. Abrade the surface then solvent wipe using meths or white spirit.
2. A coat of Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 would be recommended to seal the surface. If using the black Worktop Kit then the grey Bulls Eye 123 should be used to get good coverage with the black top coat. Similarly if using the White worktop kit then standard white Bulls Eye can be used.
3. Give the surface a light abrade if required to de-nib the primer coat.
4. Apply 1-2 coats of the Worktop base coat, (2 coats may be necessary to get complete even coverage).
5. Proceed with the clear lacquer.
If you could share your results with us, that would be great!
Hi, could this product be used on wooden work surfaces in a caravan??
Good morning Sam,
This product is not suitable for use on wooden work surfaces in a caravan I’m afraid.
If you could let me know if there are any other multi-surface paints, primers, sealers or all-in-one coatings available at Rawlins Paints you’re interested in, or what finish you are after, I would be able to provide further resource on them.
Hi at what point in the process is the glitter added?
Good morning Michelle,
Thanks for your question.
The Worktop Transformation Kit Clear Protective Topcoat contains fine glitter particles:
Galaxy Black has Silver
Diamond White has Gold
The flecks help to hide imperfections in the substrate, and are embedded in the top coat glaze – therefore do not require additional/separate application, nor can they be omitted.
I hope that helps, and answers your question?
Hi, is it possible to mix some of the black galaxy with the white diamond to get a good grey colour?
Is the glitter very prominent r is it subtle? Cheers Dorothy
Thank-you for your question. Unfortunately, they can’t mix the colours together. With regards to the glitter content – it is a fine particle, and we would class it as subtle.
Could I add extra glitter to this to make it sparkle more?
Hi Kat, thanks for your question. This should be OK, but the glitter must be a dry powder, and not mixed with any type of liquid.
You can try adding a small amount of glitter to the base coat before the activator is added: Take some of the base and stir the glitter into the material until you have a good mix with no dry lumps – you can then work this into the rest of the base coat. The base can then be activated and used.
Hi, would i be able to use spray paint on top of the base coat of the white kit as i what to create a marble look. I would then apply the top coat after.
We wouldn’t advise using any spray paint under the clear lacquer as you are likely to get a reaction. If you are keen to try something then using a water based acrylic eggshell brush applied paint over the white base coat could be worth a try. You could apply the coloured paint onto the white while the white was still wet using an artist brush to give a marble effect. This might help to blend in the 2 paint coatings instead of getting a sharp line if the base coat was dry. You should do some tests first just on some scrap materials first to get the technique right before starting on the work top. The top coat lacquer will be then OK to go over the acrylic eggshell and the base coat. Don’t use the clear on the sample though, keep it for when you do the full worktop.
Please let us know if there is anything else we can help you with today.
Hi,what filler do you recommend to fill in imperfections would a car filler be suitable?
Good morning Mark,
Yes, a car body type filler would be good to fill small chips and blemishes on a worktop prior to the application of Rust-Oleum Worktop Transformation Kit – ordinary polyfilla type products probably wouldn’t be up to it.
is the surface after coating waterproof ,or do you have to do something to make it waterproof
Good afternoon Mr Brown,
Once the applied (Rust-Oleum Worktop Transformation Kit) product is dry, it will withstand normal worktop wear and tear, including splashes and spills. Is this what you meant by waterproof? Or do you have a specific environment/use in mind where it may be exposed to submerged water?
Would it be possible to just use the clear topcoat in this kit?
No, it’s not possible to just use the topcoat, as it comes as a full system where all products must be used together to enhance and protect surfaces, not individually.
Hi, how long does the base coat last in the tin after the tin has been opened? (insturctions only mention that the gloss finish needs to be used within 4 hours but nothing is mentioned for the base coat itself) Thank you
Thanks for your question; the basecoat is a single pack product so, unlike the topcoat (which is a two pack product), there is no pot life to consider with the basecoat. However, the applications instructions explain that the basecoat should have two coats applied to the surface with only approximately 2 hours in between coats, so storage of the product over this time period will be fine by just replacing the lid securely like you would on any normal paint until ready to use for the second coat.
If you need any further help, please do get in touch.